Improvers Alpine Skills Training

Training on Ice and Rock! The Taschachaus - located in the Ötztaler Alpen in the heart of Tyrol - is an excellent base to improve basic skills in rock climbing as well as various exercises on the glacier. Some important theoretical units will complete the content of this course!

The following is a typical schedule with the guide fine tuning the plan according to the prevalling weather conditions and the experience of the group:

DAY 1: Meeting at Hotel Gundolf in Madarfen. The guide will organise luggage transport to the Taschachhaus. 3 hours ascent to the hut. After dinner preview of acitivities of the whole week.

DAY 2: Refresh: crampon techniques and use of ice axe, incl. self arrest climbing knots glacier skills: roping up, moving and climbing on different slope angles crevasse rescue; Planning for the next day

DAY 3: Glacier training: anchors and running belays on snow and ice; Placing ice screws, deadman and choosing a good location; Climbing steep ice. Planning for the next day

DAY 4: Glacier training: putting it all together; Moving in a roped party; Group management; Decision-making and orientation; Planning for the next day

DAY 5: Movement on rock: training for rock ridges; Improvement in climbing techniques; Anchors and running belays incl. belaying techniques; Moving together and use of hand coils **; Installing and climbing a fixed rope; Rescue management and first aid. Planning for the next day

DAY 6: Training for steep firn (snow) slopes and ice. After dinner: reflections on the week

DAY 7: Descent to Mandarfen/Mittelberg, farewell around 12 oclock

In the evenings there will be theoretical units on various topics like orientation, reading maps, alpine danger and alpine weather.

** Note: use of hand coils (handspulen) where safe to do. Page 210 Hochtouren Gemeinsamer Seiltransport

Inspecting and caring for your gear and outdoor equipment
Use of crampons and ice axe, roll and plant technique
Roping up and travelling on glacier (ascent and descent)
Crevasse rescue techniques
Roping up and techniques for climbing
Belaying and moving on a ridge (ascent and descent)
Planning a tour, alpine dangers, alpine weather
Orientation with maps, Apps

At least 18 years of age; Free from mental and physical handicap; Fitness to hike up 1.300 m in altitude with your backpack (about 8 kg); Ability level (Rockclimbing UIAA III and ice up to 45 degrees); Knots: overhand knot, clove hitch, munter hitch (Italien hitch), figure of 8, prusik; Basic knowledge of rope and belaying techniques; Basic knowledge of crevasse rescue techniques (team and self rescue)

Fr. 19.06.2020  

6

Services included:
6 overnights in Taschachhaus in a dormitory incl. local taxes
halfboard (breakfast and dinner)
lunch package incl. tea for the training days
English speaking instructor from the Bergsteigerschule Alpenverein Edelweiss
luggage transport between Mandarfen and Taschachhaus*
* It might not be possible to organise the whole transport, be prepared to carry the luggage for 1 hour.

Services not included:
flights or railway to/from Munich, Innsbruck or Salzburg
transport to/from Mandarfen/Mittelberg
additional meals and beverages
personal expenses
travel insurance
rented equipment (harness, ice axe, crampons)**
** Glacier equipment must be pre-booked well in advance.